Fashion plays a huge role in shaping our culture. Coco Chanel, Tom Ford, and Anna Wintour—countless talented individuals have played a role in moving the industry forward. But, despite their lasting influence, some trailblazers have faded from our collective memory. From daring trendsetters to boundary-pushing designers, these 15 forgotten fashion icons shaped style in ways we still see today.
Andre Leon Talley
Fashion journalist, editor, and icon Andre Leon Talley made his mark on the industry with his bold persona and keen eye for style. He was Vogue’s first Black creative director and played a huge role in furthering diversity in the fashion industry. His contagious passion and inspired designs are beloved worldwide.
Émile Pingat
French designer and artisan Émile Pingat helped define fashion in the late 19th century. He specialized in opulent outerwear and gowns for the French elite. Over time, his influential style spread throughout the West, often considered the epitome of Victorian elegance and style. His designs were intricate, luxurious, and sophisticated.
Dorothy Dandridge
Dorothy Dandridge captivated audiences in the 1940s and 1950s. Best known for her role in Carmen Jones, she was celebrated for her talent, elegance, and impeccable style. She was the first Black woman nominated for a Best Actress Oscar, and her iconic style continues to inspire fashion today.
Benedetta Barzini
Italian supermodel, writer, and feminist icon Benedetta Barzini played a huge role in molding 1960s style. Discovered by Diana Vreeland, she went on to be a muse for many top designers of the era and often graced the pages of Vogue. Not only did she define 60s style, but she also advocated for women’s autonomy.
China Machado
China Machado was a Chinese-born model, fashion editor, and television producer in the 1950s and 1960s. She was the first person of color to appear in a major American fashion magazine, Harper’s Bazaar. Her beauty and style heavily influenced the industry and she paved the way for other non-white models and designers.
Pauline Trigère
French-American fashion designer Pauline Trigère gained prominence in the 1950s and 1960s. Known for her sophistication and impeccable tailoring, she revolutionized womenswear for a generation. Her structured silhouettes and upscale fabrics offered ready-to-wear looks that continue to influence modern fashion. You can thank Pauline for styles such as the jumpsuit and the sleeveless coat.
Jane Birkin
You’re likely familiar with the sought-after Hermès Birkin bag, but do you know about the icon that inspired them? Jane Birkin was a prominent fashion figure in the 1960s and 1970s. Her chic, laid-back style continues to influence modern fashion and heavily defines what we think of as the French girl aesthetic.
Donyale Luna
Donyale Luna was the first Black woman to grace the cover of British Vogue in 1966. Her bright, striking eyes and ethereal presence elevated her to supermodel status. She redefined the beauty standard at a time when many models had a very uniform look. Donyale paved the way for more diversity in modeling and high fashion.
Hattie Carnegie
American fashion designer Hattie Carnegie pioneered elegant and accessible designs in the mid-20th century. She bridged the gap between aspirational high fashion and practicality. She worked with famous clients such as the Duchess of Windsor and Clare Booth Luce while also creating ready-to-wear designs for the average American woman.
Ann Lowe
In her time, Ann Lowe created some of the most iconic looks of the 1950s while also remaining largely uncredited. She was a talented African American designer in an era of high racial tensions in the United States. She designed exquisite pieces for many high-profile women. In fact, she designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. Despite facing racial discrimination, she remains an icon in the fashion world today.
Britt Ekland
Femme fatale Britt Ekland is a Swedish actress and model known internationally for her sultry, glamorous style. She rose to fame in the 1960s and 1970s for her roles in The Wicker Man and The Man with the Golden Gun. Her performance as Mary Goodnight is renowned as one of the most memorable Bond Girls.
John Bates
Known for his innovative and modern designs in the 1960s and 1970s, John Bates was emblematic of the Mod fashion aesthetic. His designs merged smart tailoring with bold innovation. Celebrities such as Diana Rigg helped popularize his creations, working hand in hand to capture the spirit of the era.
Daisy Fellowes
Daisy Fellowes was a French socialite and iconic beauty in the 1920s. Known as a Parisian muse, her flamboyant personality and avant-garde look helped shape the direction of fashion at the time. Daisy was one of the most well-known patrons of surrealist couturier Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Patou.
Josephine Baker
American-born French dancer, singer, and actress Josephine Baker was the first Black woman to star in a major motion picture, Siren of the Tropics. Her iconic banana skirt dance from Un vent de folie defined the fashion of the Jazz Age and the Roaring Twenties. Her art and activism solidified her role in history as a symbol of courage and elegance.
Camille Clifford
Belgian-born model and actress Camille Clifford embodied the Gibson Girl style in the 1920s. Known for her signature coiffure and hourglass figure, she was recognized as an “it girl” of the era. After her brief stint as a theater actress, she continued to define the style of the time. Leslie Stiles even wrote a song for her called “Why Do They Call Me A Gibson Girl?”
